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During Midwest SCC Teamworks 2022, companies such as Evonik, Active Concepts, Univar Solutions and others presented various ideas on naturalness, sustainability, cleanliness, silicones and more in the “new normal”.
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Biosurfactants in personal and home care
Brian Yang, Ph.D., Evonik’s Applied Technology Manager presented sustainable solutions for home and personal care products in the “new normal”. In response, scientific innovations are helping to drive a generation of ingredients-based chemistry based on commercial-scale fermentation.
The first area of sustainable solutions, as Evonik has pointed out, are surfactants through the rise of biosurfactants as viable solutions for cleaning and cleaning products. Ramnolipids are surfactants based on sugar raw materials that have high sustainability profiles as well as a low potential for skin irritation. They also offer effective performance in a variety of applications, such as hair care, skin cleansing, laundry, and hard surface cleaning. This presentation provided an overview of ramnolipid biosurfactants and their benefits in personal and home care applications.
Natural conservation in consumer care formulations
Pictured: “Natural Preservation in Consumer Care Formulations” with Laura Mills, Sharon Labs North America Business Development.Michele Behrens, Cosmetics and toiletries
Laura Mills, business development of Sharon Labs North America, spoke about preservation in natural formulas in cosmetics, personal care and home care and pointed out how this can be a challenge as the propensity of microbial risk with natural ingredients is much greater.
The search for a broad spectrum and high-efficiency natural conservation in all market segments, such as sun care, wet wipes, skin care, is a movement and a focus of the industry. in progress. Customer service companies are responding to a longer list of no-nos, moving away from more traditional ingredients, preservation systems, PET wet towel fibers, as well as filling a recycled or more biodegradable package.
Growing consumer demand for clean labels and more sustainable and eco-friendly brands creates additional formulation barriers for the formulator and manufacturer. To date, the search for a cleaner ingredient label often leads to an over-engineered natural preservation solution that leads to formulation instability, skin sensitivity, and increased microbial contamination.
This presentation addressed the key challenges in preserving natural consumer care products and clean beauty considering the choice of ingredients, skin sensitivity, regulatory aspects, sustainability and product statements. He also explored effective natural preservation systems with a deep immersion in the mechanism of action.
What sustainable options does the consumer demand?
In the photo: “What does the consumer demand for sustainable options?” with Vanessa DeMarco of Stepan Co.Michele Behrens, Cosmetics and toiletries
Vanessa DeMarco of Stepan Co. immersed himself for the first time in the knowledge of the Mintel market. According to Mintel, sustainability claims represent some of the fastest growing claims for new product launches in both the personal care cleaning and home care cleaning categories.
Brands are introducing new sustainable formulation concepts that include solid, powdered and concentrated formats–these improve sustainability by reducing the maximum amount of water in the formulation itself, allowing less use of energy and water throughout the manufacturing process and supply chain.
These types of products often require a new toolbox of ingredients and present challenges for the formulator. This presentation discussed the important considerations for formulating stable, high-performance solids and powders for both personal cleaning and household cleaning products.
The safety and sustainability of silicone materials
Sam Costanzo, an associate researcher at Dow Personal Care, talks about silicones, as these materials are well aligned with the safety and sustainability trends of the cosmetics industry. Industrial silicone production uses natural materials, sand and sustainable forestry as key raw materials. Investments in clean energy will further reduce greenhouse gas emissions associated with the manufacture of silicones.
“The Safety and Sustainability of Silicone Materials” with
Sam Costanzo, associate researcher at Dow Personal CareMichele Behrens, Cosmetics and toiletries
The degradability of silicones to the environment is another sustainability benefit that silicones offer. Although silicones do not biodegrade, they are expected to degrade primarily through non-biological mechanisms such as hydrolysis or photolysis in silica, silicic acid, and carbon dioxide. In addition, silicones are vegan and not transgenic. Silicones also have a long history of safe use in personal care applications. Silicones are breathable, non-comedogenic and non-allergenic; they are also safe to use near sensitive parts of the body, such as the eyes and lips.
Key points about silicones were described, which were that silicones can be part of the clean beauty movement; do not clog pores or cause acne; and do not block moisture from entering the skin and hair. Silicones can be part of the clean beauty movement as they are derived from minerals, making them an ideal choice for non-GMO products. In addition, they do not derive silicone from the animals, which makes them suitable for vegans.
Silicones are then inert, non-reactive materials that have been shown to be non-comedogenic and are extremely safe for topical use. Various silicone materials have been shown to be non-comedogenic and no silicone derivatives are listed on American, European and British allergen lists. They do not promote the growth of bacteria or other microbes and do not affect the skin’s natural respiratory function, making them ideal additives for foundations and other long-term personal care formulations.
Finally, silicones do not interfere with the breathability of the skin and scalp. Silicones are permeable to water vapor and oxygen. In fact, films of common siliocnes on a substrate that mimics the skin show a permeability of almost 100%, referred to Sam Costanzo. Silicones do not prevent bioactive or other active cosmetics from penetrating the skin. In contrast, studies have shown that silicones can contribute to the delivery of vitamin C, niacinamide, and other active ingredients.
A holistic view of sustainability
“A Holistic View to Sustainability” with Mark Miller, Head of Sustainability at NAGASE Specialty Materials.Michele Behrens, Cosmetics and toiletries
Mark Miller, Head of Sustainability at NAGASE Specialty Materials, noted how sustainability is more than synthesizing, obtaining and formulating with renewable materials, reducing waste and optimizing your value chain in the segments of personal care, personal care. home and food market; Focus and commitment to the stakeholders that you, an organization and the products impact.
The purpose of this presentation was to examine how organizations can implement a holistic approach to sustainability in creating products for customers and relevant market segments with activities that touch on six relevant pillars related to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). of the United Nations.
Supply Chain Issues in the “New Normal”
During Scholz, president and co-founder of Active Concepts, LLC, he talked about supply chain issues as he navigated the “new normal.”
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“Supply Chain Issues in the New Normal” with Durant Scholz, President and Co-Founder of Active Concepts, LLC.Michele Behrens, Cosmetics and toiletries
Scholz said: “Consumers are really interested in sustainability and traceability … the biggest problem is palm oil. There are a lot of people who make statements on the label of consumer products. Well, that’s it. “You know, the Rain Forest Alliance has decided that there are bigger fish for fry and they are no longer interested in certifying the palm. So they won’t continue to be certified.”
“What do all those companies that have built their brands that are at hand do? This is done. I think we really need to continue with consumer education and maybe farm-level specificity is not the way to go. Perhaps global growth practices make up for the lack of proactive industry, educating the consumer and only taking advantage of the consumer.–it hurts us in the long run. “
“We can develop appropriate levels of inventory to avoid shortages with transparency. It has to be a two-way street. If we’re not open and transparent with people, we can’t expect them to be properly prepared to support you, or how to the consumer or as a supplier “.
“Companies need to be able to differentiate distributors for manufacturers. This has to do with education. If you’re a chemist, you work with the material and you don’t know how it’s done.–you are not doing a good job. You need to know where it’s coming from, how it’s being done, where it’s going, and so on. “
Future of cleaning: the enzymatic solution
Brandon Beyer, an application development specialist at Univar Solutions North America, spoke about the need for the consumer market for sustainable products. Current formulators face a challenge with the need to maintain performance in the face of declining washing temperatures, sustainability goals and the need to concentrate existing products.
“The Future of Cleaning: The Enzymatic Solution” with Brandon Beyer, an application development specialist at Univar Solutions North America.Michele Behrens, Cosmetics and toiletries
New cleaning chemicals are constantly being innovated, but few have the broad potential of enzyme solutions. Whether enzymes are added directly to a product or overtime is generated by a microbial solution, nature’s cleansing ability to address common soils is unsurpassed.
Beyer presented the benefits of various classes of enzymes ranging from older technologies such as protease and amylase scavengers, to the removal of extracellular DNA by phosphodiesterase. In addition, Beyer explores the process of selecting the formulator for direct enzyme solutions versus enzyme generators such as microbial cleaners. Finally, guidelines were provided for formulating both enzymatic and microbial cleaning products, highlighting the drawbacks of the formulation and the most appropriate areas of application for the technologies.
SenStories selection tool
Finally, Mara Crespo-Webb, Croda’s key account manager, spoke about her latest SenStories Selector Tool technology. SenStories uses a reliable and reproducible methodology to connect knowledge about consumer perception and language choice with knowledge of the combination of ingredients and colloidal structure that are responsible for a given sensory sensation.
This allows predictive selection of ingredients for the development of formulations with a specific sensory experience. The development of the SenStories Selector tool helps formulators to discover the recommendations of emulsifier systems o / w suitable for the development of formulations for skin care with targeted sensors, ensuring alignment with consumer expectations.